The Story of Horsehair: The Fabric Behind Crinoline

In the realm of historical fashion, few materials have had as profound an impact as horsehair. Once a staple in creating the voluminous crinolines of the 19th century, horsehair remains a fascinating and integral part of textile history. From its origins and types to its uses and enduring significance, horsehair offers a unique glimpse into the world of fashion and garment construction. Let’s explore the history and application of horsehair in making crinoline, along with its lasting legacy.

The History of Horsehair in Fashion

Horsehair, as the name suggests, is the long, coarse hair taken from the manes and tails of horses. This natural fibre has been used in various applications for centuries, but its role in fashion, particularly in making crinoline, is especially noteworthy.

1. Early Use:

The use of horsehair in textiles dates back to ancient times. It was prized for its strength, durability, and flexibility. In fashion, horsehair was initially used for its stiffening properties, helping to shape and support garments.

2. 19th Century:

Horsehair reached its pinnacle of popularity in the mid-19th century with the advent of crinoline. The term "crinoline" itself comes from the French words "crin" (horsehair) and "lin" (linen), reflecting the materials originally used. Horsehair was woven with linen to create a stiff fabric that could hold the voluminous shapes required by Victorian fashion.

3. Transition to Steel Hoops:

As fashion evolved, the heavy and cumbersome horsehair crinolines were gradually replaced by lighter and more flexible steel-hooped crinolines. However, horsehair continued to be used in other areas of fashion and upholstery due to its desirable properties.

Types of Horsehair Crinoline

There are various types of horsehair fabrics used in crinoline construction, each offering different levels of stiffness and support:

1. Woven Horsehair:

This traditional form combines horsehair with linen or cotton to create a stiff fabric. It was the original material used in early crinolines, providing the necessary structure to achieve the wide, bell-shaped skirts.

2. Horsehair Braid:

Horsehair braid, also known as crin tape, is a narrow strip of woven horsehair. It is used to add stiffness and structure to the hems of skirts and dresses. Modern horsehair braid is often made from synthetic materials, but the principle remains the same.

3. Blended Horsehair:

In some instances, horsehair is blended with other fibres such as wool or silk to create a fabric that combines stiffness with softness. These blends are used for more refined and luxurious garments.

Why and When Horsehair Crinoline is Used

Horsehair crinoline was used extensively during the Victorian era for several reasons:

1. Creating Volume:

The primary reason for using horsehair in crinolines was to create the dramatic volume that defined Victorian fashion. The stiffness of horsehair allowed skirts to stand away from the body, achieving the desired silhouette.

2. Structural Support:

Horsehair provided the necessary structural support to maintain the shape of garments. This was crucial for achieving the fashion ideals of the time, which favoured exaggerated, bell-shaped skirts.

3. Durability:

Horsehair is incredibly durable, which made it suitable for garments that needed to withstand frequent wear and the weight of multiple fabric layers.

4. Flexibility:

Despite its stiffness, horsehair is also flexible, allowing it to move with the wearer. This combination of properties made it ideal for creating both structured and wearable garments.

Additional Details

1. Production:

The process of making horsehair fabric involves harvesting the hair from the tails and manes of horses, which is then cleaned, sorted, and woven into fabric. The weaving process requires specialised looms and techniques to handle the unique properties of horsehair.

2. Modern Uses:

While horsehair crinolines are no longer common, horsehair fabric still finds use in modern fashion and upholstery. It is prized for its texture and durability, often used in high-end tailoring and hat-making.

3. Sustainability:

Horsehair is a natural and renewable resource. As awareness of sustainable fashion grows, there is renewed interest in natural fibres like horsehair. It offers an eco-friendly alternative to synthetic stiffening materials.

The story of horsehair in fashion is a testament to the ingenuity and creativity of textile artisans. From its early use in creating voluminous crinolines to its continued presence in modern fashion, horsehair has left an indelible mark on the industry. Its unique properties of stiffness, flexibility, and durability made it the ideal material for shaping the iconic silhouettes of the 19th century. Even today, horsehair continues to inspire designers and craftsmen, ensuring that its legacy lives on. So next time you admire the grandeur of a Victorian dress or the fine details of a bespoke hat, remember the humble horsehair – the fabric that helped shape the course of fashion history.